As a result of what we consider over-spraying by the government, but they consider merely prudent business, there are hardly any mosquitoes left in the Hotel Zone. There are still mosquitoes in town, especially in vegetated areas. Outside of Cancun, they can be as thick as snowflakes at certain times, usually just before and after sunset and after rain. We remember thirteen straight days of rain when we were living in Playa del Carmen. The mosquitoes were so numerous one day that when we tried to go shopping, we had to give up and run home.

If you sight-see in vegetated areas, wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers and socks, especially during mosquito hours (dawn and dusk), when it is better to stay inside. When selecting accommodations outside of the Cancun Hotel Zone, make sure to check the screens for good repair and tight fit. If you see blood smears on the walls, beware. Mosquito repellents do work, but the best bet for extended stays outside of urban Cancun is to sleep under mosquito netting -- called pabellón here, and available in Mercado 23, El Parian, and Hamacas El Aguacate in Plaza Bonita. The nylon kind is the best.

The itching of mosquito bites can be temporarily relieved with applications of 96º alcohol, available in any supermarket or drugstore. We like the red label best. They say you can drink it, but we've never tried it, even though it is marked "potable." The blue label is denatured and doesn't smell as good. Some mosquitoes, called zancudos, leave raised welts that itch ferociously. They hatch in the roots of grass and the bites are most frequent on the ankles and can take up to two weeks to heal. Cortisone cremes can help relieve the itching.